![]() I really like the way the Hope hubs are bomb proof and can be easily serviced. I have Stans/Hope on my mountain bikes and love them which is why I'm looking at them for the cross bikes. so these could be a good option depending on the price. I was thinking about getting some Stans Iron Cross on hope hubs, when I have saved up a bit, but have seen the new Grail rims that Stans have come out with. Is there any good reason why these wheels wouldn't work? I will need to swap the front wheel hub conversions out for QRs but I have them somewhere. ![]() I'm planning on running them tubeless with 35mm Rapid Rob Tyres. I am wondering about steeling the Hope Hoops with Crest rims from my 29 hart tail that I am not using a lot at the moment. I'm looking for something pretty tough and I'm not to worried about out and out speed. They are Mavic rims with some non-branded hubs. I love the bike but I'm not that taken with the wheels. On tubeless setups I run the lowest pressure I can get away with, without folding the tire over, which ends up being right around 40F/45R on the MXPs (I was around 295lbs last race season).I've recently picked up a Boardman Cross bike with disc brakes. When I set tire pressure with tubes, I run the lowest I can get away with, without flatting which is around 40psi front/45 rear for CX tires. Word back from Stans was: 'The max pressure for the rim is 116psi, and I would not run a tire much wider than 32mm at 45psi.' Quote 0. The Grail rims have the following pressure limits on the side: 116 psi 23c. Grip and ride quality were still much improved, it just reminded me of my tubeless MTB conversions years ago before manufacturers started shipping tubeless tires with thicker sidewalls. If I can hit 55 psi at 35 I'd be more than happy. Only gripe I had was that I had to run similar pressures to what I ran with tubes since the sidewalls were so thin on the MXPs (I'm also a certified clydesdale, YMMV). The mold builder dries in each ridge and makes an airtight seal to the rim wall.ĭidnt have a problem for the rest of the season. Solution was to break each bead, paint a line of latex mold builder onto the bead and reseat the beads. The bead locked into place easily but the ridges along the bead allowed air to leak down, resulting in a flat tire after just a few hours. Sealant was some homebrew stuff, most recent recipe on the MTBR open-source sealant thread. I raced half of the last season on tubeless MXPs installed on Pacenti TL28 rims. We've been using Maxxis Mud Wrestlers and Specialized 2bliss Triggers / Terras with excellent results, grip and handling even at low-20s psi. They'll start out fine, and eventually work loose and start leaking / burping sealant.Ĭlements all have a ridged / textured bead on their clincher tires, so we avoid them. ![]() Not to mention Clement have a very supple casing and a Kevlar / aramid bead that will stretch and deform over time. If it's not, then no amount of sealant or tight rim fit will guarantee you won't have problems, especially at lower pressures when cornering hard. If it's smooth with no burrs or mold marks, fine, knock yourself out, it should work (depends on rim of course but the smoother the bead, the better). We stick to using their sewups and look elsewhere for tubeless clinchers.Ī pro wheel guy at the shop whose advice I trust told me this: regardless of what tire you're considering using for a tubeless conversion, look closely at the tire bead. At 385 grams a rim, the ZTR Iron Cross disc rim will make your next cyclocross disc wheel build considerably lighter but able to handle all the punishment you can dish out. Stans does not recommend them for starters. The new ZTR Iron Cross rim combines a stiff 17.5mm rim depth, a 20mm wide internal cavity, and our ultra-low-profile Bead Socket Technology (BST) sidewalls to virtually eliminate pinch flats under some of the lowest tire pressures you can run. We did not elect to convert our Clements to tubeless for CX even tho we have them as a sponsor. I've heard mixed advice about Clement and tubeless.
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